Dessy's
Story
BANDA ACEH, Inonesia, January 18- Dessy hadn’t been back
to her house since the day the wave crashed through her neighborhood
causing her family and friends to literally run for their lives.
We found her
three weeks later sitting complacently cross-legged with her
mother in the hot, steamy shade of a blue tent built by a
relief organization. Hundreds just like it haphazardly join
together on the lawn of a local television station set on
higher ground in the town of Banda Aceh. Not surprisingly,
people here are drawn to higher ground.
Laundry
hangs from satellite dishes. Older people lean in doorways
staring blankly into space still in shock. Children play between
canvass walls as if they’re on a camping trip. Some
survivors find the energy to do chores, trying to make their
new, indefinitely temporary dwellings feel more like a home.
Most tents house up to 100 people. Dessy is lucky. She shares
her 10-by-15-foot plot with about 20 other people, mostly
her family, except her grandparents whom she lost to the sea.
Inside her tent is clean-- shoes stacked at the door keep
loose dirt from invading the area where they sleep, emergency
relief supplies diligently organized set in rows along the
walls.
She stands and greets us. She is about 5-2, thin but healthy.
Her head is covered by a traditional black Muslim veil more
ornate than the typical silky wrap. She’s 21, but looks
16. Despite witnessing unfathomable horror, her eyes are innocent.
They express a sublime happiness even when she’s not
smiling, as if she’s somehow made peace with her fate.
They are framed by oval, wire-rimmed gold glasses befitting
of a computer science student at a local university. She was
set to graduate next year but her school was physically washed
away and her professors killed. She’s not sure what
her immediate future holds. For now, she said, she will stay
at the tent for a while.
After hearing the story of her harrowing escape, Dessy pauses
at our question but then emphatically nods and agrees to go
back to her house for the first time since the tragedy and
physically walk us through that day.
The streets of Banda Aceh five miles from the shoreline are
like any other third-world city center. Open air markets sell
fresh local produce, traveling butchers hang newly killed
meats, scooters and beat up cars clog signal-free intersections.
It feels as if nothing has happened to this town until we
turn off the main road onto the street that leads into Dessy’s
neighborhood, or what’s left of it.
She sits in the back of our rented SUV and stares out the
window emotionless as we tenuously roll over planks and debris
that used to be houses. The neighborhood looks like it used
to be a nice, middle-class community consisting mostly of
two-story, four bedroom homes. We pass a mass grave on the
left where 93 bodies have recently been buried. It’s
marked only by fallen branches purposely stuck vertically
into freshly dug earth.
The
SUV comes to a stop and we get out.
“It’s sad,” Dessy simply, softly says as
she walks carefully in flip flops. She approaches an empty
space next to a crumbling structure. She points at the structure.
“That used to be my neighbors. I don’t know where
they are now.”
The empty space was her home. The foundation is barely distinguishable
under random rubble. Most of the mess had been washed there
from miles away.
The panoramic view is utter destruction. Words are difficult
to find to describe its essence. The striking part is how
clean everything is. Usually, chaos such as this is covered
by soot and burnt embers-- death by fire. But when an area
is washed away, an eerie faded feeling takes over as if the
town was put into an industrial-strength washing machine and
suffered through a thousand spin cycles.
Dessy points toward the ocean, which is about three miles
to the northwest.
“After we felt the shake I ran outside and saw a huge
wall of water about 500 meters away rushing toward me,”
she says stoically. “We just ran. Left everything behind
and ran.”
She explains that if she went back to find her belongings
before she fled she probably would have lost her life. Now,
almost nothing recognizable remains and she doesn’t
seem to feel any attachment to the few personal affects that
linger.
A
teapot teeters on a board. It used to be hers, she says, but
doesn’t pick it up. A clock stuck in the sand has stopped
exactly at the time the wave hit. She steps over it, not looking
down.
Walking around with Dessy it’s hard to make sense of
any of this destruction. I search for reasons, complex science-based
answers. I try to understand how Dessy is so accepting of
her fate. But for Dessy it’s simple: Allah, God, she
says. I envy such a submissive faith in a higher power. It
affords her an acceptable explanation to the cause of this
tragedy; it powers her soul forward toward an unsure future.

We continue walking the grounds, taking pictures and rolling
video trying somehow to capture and communicate what’s
happened here. But, we have to cut short our time, it’s
past 2 pm and Dessy explains she must make it back to camp
in order to pray. To respect her faith we quickly assemble
back into the SUV.
As we drive off I turn around a snap off a couple last shots.
Dessy doesn’t look back.
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